VENUE OF THE WEEK: Café Olé

Have you tried the new Tapas Bar on the High Street yet, Cafe Olé?

For some reason, not at first apparent, I am reminded of Sheldrakes Restaurant on Heswall Shore, some 25 years ago. The former premises of The Dee Sailing Club, the restaurant has probably the best views of anywhere on the Wirral. From my window in New Brighton, with Fort Perch Rock in the foreground, I can look out across the Mersey Bar to the North Liverpool coastline; from Sheldrakes, built almost on the edge of the sand dunes, diners are treated to the serenity of the Dee Estuary, with the Welsh  Hills beyond. Sunsets are exquisite.

In my mind's eye I can still see Stan Smith, boyish blond mop like an ageing pop star, and his wife Sandie, the Maitress d', a sleek suicide blonde (dyed by her own hand, geddit!!) purring like a cat who's got the cream as she sits beside you on the banquette by the blazing fire and describes each dish on the brief menu with all the seductive techniques of a high-class madame. Gastroporn, yes please!

Stan had a fetish for strong black Spanish coffee, chased with Fundador - a Spanish brandy so rough it could take the coffee-stained enamel off your teeth! Back in the day, a quarter-century ago, when Rioja was the pits and nobody outside Spain, it seemed, had even heard of Tempranillo.

Sheldrakes, as it is today, grew organically. Stan would wake up one morning and decide to lay a patio; a few months later, perhaps, the patio would acquire a roof, supported on Mediterranean-style pillars. A year later it would be glazed and an integral part of the restaurant. And so it went.

Sandie went too, and, sadly, the original Sheldrakes was never quite the same again.

In terms of decor, Cafe Olé bears a greater resemblance to The Alacadoo in West Kirby, a former supermarket on the main road, hispanically transformed with rough-rendered whitewashed walls, lots of ebony-stained wood and Moorish black ironwork. Tim Martin, the founder of Wetherspoons, made his name by fighting competitors tooth-and-nail to obtain liquor licences for premises such as these - supermarkets, car showrooms, etc - and then giving them the appearance of tradtional pubs which had been there for donkeys years. Despite its hacienda style, the big thing at The Alacadoo, presided over by John and Phil Wylie, was their steaks. If you wanted the Paella (for 2) you had to give at least 24 hours prior notice.

At Cafe Olé, equally stark white walls and dark wood are offset by huge lurid posters depicting Flamenco Dancers and, naturally - very non-PC - Bull Fighting. Not the machismo blood and gore of an Ernest Hemingway book but, rather, the 1960s rock-idol chic of El Cordobes, his matador pants so tight you're in no doubt the guy's got "cojones" - and that's no bull!

From then on Café Olé becomes the stuff of package holiday-makers: I mean, Scouse Sangria? Actually quite delicious - like most of the food on offer - but authentic Spanish? Nah!

The Chicken Seville sounded rather tasty but would, I suspect, have turned out to be strips of breast meat sautéed with garlic, onions and mixed peppers, finished with a marmalade jus and maybe a dash of fresh orange juice. Of particular note, however, were the Paella Pancakes and Pork & Paprika Meatballs.

RECIPES

Scouse Sangria: In a pint glass loaded with ice pour 175ml of Red Wine; add 25ml of Cointreau, 25ml of Blackcurrant Cordial, and whatever fruit is to hand. Top up with lemonade & stir well. Long straws essential.

Paella Pancakes: 60g Onion, 125g Arborio Rice, 400ml Water, 1tsp Chicken Bouillon, 0.5tsp Garlic Salt, 1sp Tomato Puree, Pinch Yellow Colouring powder, 1sp Thai Fish Sauce, 0.5tsp Salt, 0.5tsp Sugar, 1pinch Pepper. 60g Frozen Peas, 25g Blitzed Spring Onion, 60g Blitzed Red Peppers, 60g Blitzed Green Peppers, 60g Blitzed Prawns. 60g diced Chicken, 60g diced Pork, a further 0.5tsp Salt, and 0.5tsp Garlic Puree. Fry finely chopped onions (not Spring Onions) with the rice, add stock, the flavourings and the peas. Cook until all liquid is absorbed.  In a separate wok stir-fry the two meats and THEIR seasoning. When ready, stir in the raw peppers, spring onions, chopped prawns and cooked meats. When cold, wrap in spring roll pastry, seal with beaten egg and deep-fry until golden brown. Eat cold or microwave to serve. These are not supposed to be crispy, however much they may resemble Chinese Spring Rolls!

Pork & Paprika Meatballs: 350g Minced Pork, 125g Blitzed Red Peppers, 125g blitzed Onion, 40g Plain Flour, 40g Breadcrumbs. 40g Oatmeal. Add 1 beaten egg, 1tsp Salt, a pinch of Pepper, 1dstsp Garlic Puree, 1dstsp Ground Paprika, 0.5tsp Ground Cinnamon, 0.25tsp Chilli Powder, 1dstsp Tomato Ketchup. Mix together all the ingredients, form into 30g balls and deep-fry until golden-brown and firm. Finish in oven for 20 minutes.